Roof! Roof! (Not Woof! Woof!)
What is this about and Who should read it?
Okay, if I have your attention, you will find useful information here whether you are evaluating the roof on an existing home or ready to replace the roof on your current house. And it is important. A good roof not only adds value to your home but also is the first protection of the structure itself.
(As with most of my posts, this information is relevant to the Denver, Colorado metro area.)
What types of roofs are out there?
The most common roof is a 3-tab composition roof. These are typically installed over rolled on asphalt impregnated felt paper. The shingle itself is asphalt based with fiberglass granules as a surface protection. Typical life expectancy is 20 years.
Next in the “composition” roof family is the “architectural grade” composition roof. The materials and installation are similar to the 3-tab but the shingles are laminated so that there are two layers. This product is sometimes known as a “bi-laminate”. The two layers provide a heavier shadow line and longer life. You can figure 25 to 30 years for this roof. In this same category is the “tri-laminate”; similar but with three layers and a potential 35-50 year life span.
Frequently in use for both new and replacement roofs is a lightweight concrete tile product. While the system is ”light weight” for tile, it is heavier than composition roof material and the structure itself must be evaluated by an engineer before installation. Many of these roofs come with a 50-year warranty. Your insurance will be much lower than with other options; in many cases low enough to recapture the incremental cost over architectural grade composition in just a few years. One “negative” to consider with this roof system is that it is quite east to break the tiles when walking on them so be really careful during any maintenance operation. You always want an experienced installer. In the case of tile that become even more important as some installers will attach the horizontal ”battens”, over which the tiles are installed, without either shims or vertical battens. While an “approved” method, it is likely to shorten the life of the roof as the horizontal battens, if not raised, will trap water and deteriorate faster.
You may have, or see on your prospective home, hand-split wood (usually cedar) shakes. For many years this system was considered an upgrade from a composition roof and certainly has the heavy shadow line that many people like. This is NOT a good roof in this area. It was not bad when a “heavy” shake meant 3/4″ to 5/4″ butt ends. These actually had reasonable hail resistance and I have seen some 30-year roofs that were still serviceable. As time progressed and builders tried to save money we saw medium and light shakes being used. One light hail event and they are toast and 20 years is about it for life-span. To the best of my knowledge shakes are not used in any new construction and the only replacements that I see are in neighborhoods where the residents have not been able to change covenants that allow only shakes. Check before you buy if you are thinking of replacing shakes with ANYTHING else.
Two roof types that you will find on existing homes but which are no longer being installed are “Woodruff” and “Permatec”. Woodruff is “pressed-board” product made from sawdust and glue. I was to be a shake replacement but better. Some of it has held up reasonably well and may provide a 20 to 25 year life but too much of it deteriorated. Inspect this roof carefully. There are far fewer Permatec roofs around. This too was the man-made answer to wood shakes, did not hold up and was the subject of a class-action suit resulting in large payments to home-owners.
I am beginning to see what are called “stone coated steel” simulated shake roofs being used as replacements. I have observed that in some of the older installations, the stone coating has begun to come off. I do not know if that is a condition that has been addressed with some of the newer products.
The above options cover probably 95% of the roofs that I see. There is the occasional metal roof and some other “simulated shake” roofs. I have not tried to address flat roofs in this post and will save those for another.
The Process and The Permit
First, hire a really reputable contractor. If one tells you that you do not need a permit move on. Get references, call them and look at the work. Make sure that the permit is not just issued, but also closed out with a final inspection. I recently had a transaction where the inspection resolution required the installation of a new roof “in accordance with local building code and properly permitted”. I went by the property just to check progress, saw some things that did not look quite right and called the building department only to learn the work had not been permitted. I reported the address and when I went by the next day the old roof coverings were being properly removed and the code-required, new solid decking was being installed. If you don’t have an agent on your side, you just need to be on top of the work.
These were just the high points!
Contact me with questions and/or leave your comments and your roof experiences below, particularly if you can add to everyone’s knowledge.
Russ Murray 303-721-1100, ext 1 russ@buyerbroker-denver.com